A Case Study in Vintage Fashion History

Fashion followers may recall that Kate Moss wore a pale yellow dress by 1950s French couturier Jean Dessès to the New York Fashion Week gala. The popularity of vintage clothing can be traced back to the 1960s. As fashion became more diverse, the trade in old clothes increased in parallel with the number of such items.

Vintage is not easily defined. It is used in a vague and fluid way across different industries to refer to a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era. A vintage item is not as old as an antique. Vintage items are typically 15-20 years old and crafted using the same techniques and materials as those produced during the period in question.

This article will review the history of vintage fashion and introduce some of the leading vintage fashion designers.

Vintage as an indicator of social status

There is a clear correlation between fashion and old clothes, which serves as a marker of social status. In the past, a recently-made jacket fabric was neither classic nor fashionable, indicating that the person wearing it was from a lower socioeconomic background. This stigma was keenly felt, and those in the lower classes saw wearing old clothes during wartime as a sign of thrift and patriotism.

Such clothes were typically passed down through families and were rarely purchased. The majority of consumers of these old clothes were thought to purchase them with the intention of giving the impression of a higher social status. It was popular among the poor and actors, which led to the wearer being viewed with as much suspicion as the seller. Prior to the mid-1960s, used clothing was not popular in the traditional retail environment. Its merchants preferred pawnshops, stalls and auction houses as places of sale. The sale of used clothes was viewed as a criminal activity and a disinterested pastime.

There are large warehouses of second-hand clothes and a large export market. As the trend of wearing old clothes began to decline, the custom of wearing old clothes emerged and became known as 'vintage'. This type of clothing was moved from the market to high-end boutiques.

London Vintage

The sale of vintage dresses in London has been a well-established practice since the 1970s. In addition, mid-1970s shopping guides noted that many vintage retailers offered in-house tailoring in vintage fabrics. However, vintage fashion was not considered an entirely acceptable practice, and the consumers who wore them were mainly those who wanted to rebel against the customs of previous generations.

The combination of thrift and frugality, coupled with subversive practices, made vintage fashion an icon of morality and practice, particularly in the 1950s and 1960s. It was a trend used to represent the hippie lifestyle. Many people saw the wearing of old clothes as a sign of the hippie lifestyle of the following decades. This is reflected in the political stance of the Women's Environmental Network in the 1990s. However, the work of designers such as Vivienne Westwood, Komodo, Helen Storey and others also represents the hippie lifestyle and its connection to vintage fashion.

Trends for the 21st century

The 21st century has seen a resurgence in the popularity of vintage clothing. This trend can be attributed to the growing influence of bohemianism, which represents individuality and artistic elitism. Several boutique retailers offering vintage fashion have gained significant traction and status. These retailers have been featured in numerous fashion magazines and have become a favorite among celebrities. In North America, vintage retailers have also become a dominant force in the fashion industry, with numerous headlines dedicated to them. The growing popularity of vintage fashion in film and on the catwalk is a clear indication that a revival of the vintage style is on the horizon.

One of the main criticisms of vintage is that it is quite nostalgic, especially with its influence on contemporary design. Many designers are attracted to old clothes, especially the reworking of old fabrics or garments. Many designers are also exploring the history of clothing to be able to create modernised vintage for the post-modern consumer. However, investing in vintage fashion does not imply a nostalgic approach. These pieces are chosen by contemporary people. In most cases, it is not the garment itself that is at issue, but rather its positioning in contemporary debates, which refreshes the meaning and memories that the fabric provides.